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Left Cape Evans. 10 horses. 10 men and loaded with some Hut Point provisions–about 11 a.m. Arrived about 3.30 p.m.

 
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Up at 5, writing letters. Still blizzarding, but looks like clearing. Today will go in completing preparations for tomorrows’ start, I know, so I won’t keep this book out any longer. Anything else I can send home will be in a few notes at odd times by returning parties on the Barrier—and these I expect will be short ones addressed to Ory.

God bless you all. I wish I could have made this journal more interesting and less personal. Keep it from any chance of getting used for publications. I am just as fit as I have ever been in my life, and I hope with all my heart that all of you at home are getting along well and happily. God be with you all.

 
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Up at 5.30 to write and read. Took pony out after breakfast and then wrote letters and finished up preparations for a start and had various confidential talks with various people who had confidences to bestow while it blew a whole blizzard all the afternoon outside.

 
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Twentieth Sunday after Trinity. Up at 5 to write and read, and at 10 we had Church service. After this I took Nobby out for exercise and then Captain Scott and Petty Officer Evans, Crean and I went through various sledging and camping scenes for Ponting on the cinematograph. We were at it for about two hours and he got 700 ft of film.

We were taken first in harness drawing our sledge load between bergs. Then along another berg to a patch of snow where we unharnessed and pitched camp. We set the tent, filled the cooker, passed everything in to the tent and then got in ourselves.

Then we had striking camp and packing up and getting under way and then we had finally a length of sledge hauling on ski.

The whole series with the scenes in the tent, which we did the other day, ought to be awfully good, I think, as there is no humbug about them at all ; they are all straight forward photos of what we do every day on trek, only they can’t possibly be taken under those conditions.

 

We were late in lunching after this, and then I worked out my three Emperor Penguins’ eggs which had well formed chicks in them of three different sizes, fairly young, but a good deal older than I had ever expected, which is all the better for my work.

I got these well pickled for future work. As they are quite unique and probably the most primitive embryos of this most primitive bird at present living on the earth they may turn out to be interesting. They were obtained under difficulties too, and won’t be got again in a hurry, I think, unless Amundsen has an Emperor rookery in his Bay of Whales during the winter.

Our departure on the southern journey is postponed for a day as the two days at Hut Point put everyone back in their final arrangements. So we start on Wednesday. I wrote a few letters in the evening and finished off the eggs.

 
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Blowing all day so no going out with the horses. Spent the time getting things ready for our start on Tuesday. Packed up my sketches I am sending home to Ory in two packages—118 in all addressed to Mrs. Ted Wilson, Westal, Cheltm., Engld.

I shall get Drake to send them from Christchurch, N.Z. insured and registered or by express so they ought to get home all right. In looking at them you must remember they were all done by artificial light acetylene and so they look queer by daylight the blues and the yellows are apt to go wrong.

We had our first Skua Gull back again here on Thursday last, and I saw one here myself today hovering round the hut.

 
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A fine day—and we all started off after an early breakfast to see the two motors with their loads on to the Barrier, 6 miles from Hut Point, before we left them again to their own resources for success or failure.

Lashly’s car did the distance with only two stoppages—the surface was good hard snow—but he was then so overheated in his engines that he had to stop, and then Day, who had come with more stoppages for cooling on the way, also came up and passed him and ran easily up the snow slope on to the Barrier on his top gear and we bade him good­bye as he went off.

Lashly, having cooled down, then followed him up and they were soon together again. We left them then and went back to Hut Point. Then we lunched there, packed up our sledges and started off for Cape Evans again.

We camped once for tea on the way at the Great Razorback Island and got home by about 10 p.m. that night having done 27 miles since breakfast 15 with a sledge load.

 

At the Great Razorback we were in the midst of a nursery of young Weddell Seals, all born within the last 4 or 5 days, and some only a day or so. They are jolly little woolly haired yellowish animals with great big black eyes.

The old mothers took no notice of us, except one which lolloped in a great hurry after our sledge and viciously bit the end of it. I found one baby seal had got frozen into the ice—it was quite alive but lying in a pool of thaw water, so I freed it and put it back with its mother who continued to snooze a yard or two off and showed not the slightest interest.

When I got back to the hut I found I had got a touch of snow glare, as I had marched without goggles, and I spent a lively night in consequence. Got to sleep about 4 a.m. and was all right again at breakfast.

After Tuesday next, when we start for the south, I shall be in goggles for about 4 months on end—this bout has warned me just in time. The loss of these two days just when we wanted them most of all for letter writing and final arrangements has been rather a trial.

 

A host of things have had to be left to the last moment and now it becomes a rush to get them done in time. However, this diary must supply my news and everyone must forgive me for not writing letters.

 
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Up at 5.30. Writing, and a fine calm sunny morning.

We have the sun above the horizon all the 24 hours tomorrow and soon the weather should begin to settle down. We have had more than our share of wind and blizzard lately.

We hear this morning from Hut Point that the motors have been having great difficulty with smooth blue sea ice and in places have only managed about a mile in five hours. So eight of us started off to help them over this ice by hauling.

We took two tents and our sleeping bags and expected to find the motors off the Glacier Tongue, i.e. in about 6 or 7 miles, but we actually overtook them in about 14 miles, i.e. about a mile off Hut Point, as they had got on to snow covered ice again and were once more going a very good speed, Days’ car sometimes going well on its high gearing at 3 miles an hour with a ton and a half of stuff. Lashly is driving the other car, but can’t go quite so fast.

However, as they both over­heat and have to stop periodically to cool down, they keep together pretty easily. The great difficulty is

 

to balance the overheating of the air cooled engines against the cooling down of the carburetter.

We camped and had lunch off Hut Point and then it came on to blow and drift so we saw both motors as far as Cape Armitage and then all our party and the motor party came in for the night to Hut Point where Meares and Demitri cooked us supper—and we spent a very comfortable time.

 
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Up at 5.30 and finished off the report on scientific work.

Now that our cook, Clissold, is on the sick list and Hooper, the wardroom servant, has gone off with the motors, we have to do the cooking and housework ourselves. Atkinson, with Keohanes’ help, has done the baking and cooking, while Bowers and Cherry-Garrard and others have done the sweeping, fire-lighting, table-laying and what not.

Today it was blowing a gale of wind all the forenoon, and I finished off the boiling down of the scientific work report.

Couldn’t get any ponies out till the afternoon. The motors have not got to Hut Point yet as we can see with glasses from here, but they are more than halfway and probably were forced to lose most of today by the wind.

This afternoon, later on, the sun came out and it was really quite pleasant. One saw the Irishmen sitting smoking on the provision cases outside the hut, as though outside their own shabeen in Kerry. Crean, Forde and Keohane are all Irishmen, but especially Crean who is a delightful creature.

 

Simpson and Gran set off after dinner to Hut Point to see whether the telephone was in working order or the wire broken as we haven’t been able to ring Meares up today.

It may be that he is away to one of the depots with his dogs though.

 
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Up at 5. Sunny and clear. I have to write a note for the press telegram, which Captain Scott is sending home, on the scientific work of the expedition up to date from the time of our arrival here.

From January 22 when we left Cape Evans on the depot journey to April 22 when we returned there was practically no scientific work done by anyone, except by the Western Party (geological) consisting of Taylor, Wright and Debenham, and by the hut party consisting of Simpson, Nelson and Ponting. Atkinson and I were both on the sledge work as medicals.

Therefore, to begin with, the hut work.

Simpsons’ arrangements there for physical work of all kinds is the most important. He was given a good corner of the main hut with Wright, close by a window looking E.S.E. where he fixed up a working bench, a small writing table and a lot of shelves, his motor engine, his fan for the thermograph, his electric apparatus and various instruments.

 

In this corner, without leaving the hut, he can read off recording instruments giving continuous records of the temperature outside, the barometer and (by standard barometer and 2 barographs), the wind force (by Dines’ anemometer and by an anemo­graph which records miles per hour as well).

In the hut porch he has another clockwork drum, which records the direction of the wind continuously. Then in his own corner he records continuously the potential gradient of the air.

On the top of a small hill, about 300 yds from the hut, he has instruments for the following observations :– a sunshine recorder, which gives a continuous record—a glass globe which turns a line on a slip of card —also 2 Robinsons’ cup anemo­meters for wind velocity records. Further screen instruments for temperature to check those by the hut, and so on.

To check these continuous records observations are taken independently every 4 hours and so also are observations on

 

the nature and directions of motion of clouds, and on the weather and the direction of Erebus’ smoke, which gives the wind direction at 13,000 ft.

All through the winter hourly observations were made on the aurora, and as long as there was any absence of light these were continued by the night watchman.

Measurements of atmospheric radioactivity were taken from May to August for winter values, and these will be repeated as opportunity offers for summer values.

The upper atmo­sphere was from time to time investigated whenever weather conditions allowed a chance of recovering the instruments sent up, or of following the course of the balloon—first by balloons sent up without instruments, simply to give the direction of the upper currents, and secondly with instruments which recorded the height and the temperature in a regular curve on a minute plate of silvered metal.

 

A still more important part of the work done by Simpson was observation of the magnetic elements continuously by Eschenhagens’ magnetograph, while weekly observations of the absolute value of the dip, declination and horizontal force were also made.

The cunning devices by which all the working out of these instruments with the electric lamps and periodic cut-offs, and the electric bells every hour, and alarm bells to go off when any recorder broke down, were extra­ordinarily good and well thought out.

Simpsons’ ingenuity in this way overcame the absence of his special meteorological hut. Instead of it he has managed work with the corner given him in the main hut, and with a small asbestos sheeting hut and a good big cave hewn out of a small blue ice glacier not 100 yards from the main hut door.

So much for Simpsons’ work which is all on the top line, as he knows well what he is about and spends his whole time at it. He has really worked hard and continuously ever since we

 

came down here, and has managed to overcome innumerable difficulties.

Nelson also had the late summer months, or rather the 3 autumn months, for his work at the station while we were away, but he was handicapped by living on a moraine with no sea ice to work from. He got all his apparatus well into order for the winter work and all through the winter kept a good hole open in a shelter off the end of the cape which he visited and worked at every day over 100 fathoms of water.

Here plankton samples were taken at short intervals with townets of various meshes. Quantitative samples have also been taken in 93 fathoms with inter­national pattern nets. By dredging and traps larger material has been taken from the bottom as well as a good many fish. Nelson has also been doing hydrographic work at his hole in the ice.

Water samples have been taken at intervals from a depth of 2 to 170 metres. Soundings have been made over a number of cracks in the sea ice. The purpose of the water samples is to

 

obtain their salinity values, current measurements, velocity, and direction, throughout a period of 24 hours for spring and neap tides, and measurements of the amount of light at various depths beneath the ice are forming part of the spring programme.

There is also interesting work to do in the various fresh water lakes and pools on Cape Evans itself, these being full of vegetable growth and minute life. The botanical work is limited, there being only a few lichens and seaweeds and mosses. As soon as the sea ice froze sufficiently a permanent tide gauge was erected and a continuous curve of the rise and fall obtained throughout the winter. No seiches have been observed, however.

While this work was going on at the main station at Cape Evans the Western Geological Party was doing good work on the west side of the sound. Physiography , geology, petrology and ice work with a good deal of surveying and amplification of existing Discovery surveys were all undertaken and brought very interesting results.

 

Detailed maps have now been made of Dry Valley and its vicinity under the head of Ferrar Glacier.

The west Koettlitz Glacier and its tributary valleys have also been mapped in detail. A number of districts here are forming or have recently been forming—structural characteristics which are obviously comparable with those of other now ice free regions of the world.

The Dry Valley, for example, has with its barriers and defiles its counterpart in similar characteristic valleys of the southern Alps: The opposed parallel glaciers, Ferrar and Taylor, suggest the northern arm of Ferrar Glacier as an illustration of the origin of the Lake of Lucerne.

And again the wonderful series of cwm or cirque valleys of Mounts Lister, Hooker, Rucker and Huggins show the characteristic topography of the Rockies.

 

 

The discovery of small volcanic craters on the glaciated shoulders of Dry Valley mark an interglacial period of volcanicity.

Another point of interest is the existence of what appears to be a drainage area into Lake Bonney (4 miles long) below the Taylor Glacier and remote from the seashore ; an inland drainage with no apparent exit to the sea. Dry Valley turned out to be a rich petrographic province with numerous quartz veins poor in minerals and un­successfully panned for gold.

One of the most complete opportunities for the investigation of the sequential disintegration of a great glacier face lay in the 20 miles of the Koettlitz Glacier, and this was taken advantage of by most of this party.

A general study of erosion throughout the district shows the comparatively large part played by wind and by water. The latter acting for only a short period at the height of summer has nevertheless very great power.

 

The ice work done on this journey consisted of an accumulation of facts concerning the crystallography and growth of ice. The development of nivation glaciers from snow drifts is rapid and widespread here—numerous photos were taken and have turned out well.

This sums up the work that was done up to about the end of April when all who had scientific work to do were again at Cape Evans.

Simpsons’ subsequent work I have mentioned. Wrights’ work for the winter included ice in its various aspects, pendulum observations and the natural ionisation of water. This summer it will include photometry, and later I hope to go through some experiments with him on feather and fur radiation and conductivity.

But as regards his ice work, which is the most important for him, one cannot give the results. One can only say that a tremendous number of facts and photos and measurements are being collected and that results will eventuate.

 

Glaciers, their various forms, indications of move­ment and structural details are all of paramount interest here when we have miles of a great glacier front at our hut door and some of the biggest glaciers in the world to work on within reach.

The interest is increased as there is everywhere indication of a gradual diminution of the glaciation, and structural details of the rock beneath are being disclosed fresh from the hands of the sculpturing agent instead of time and weather-worn, as in so many other parts of the world where they occur.

The sea ice is also getting full attention both as to its structure and growth, and it looks as though its growth depended largely on the deposition of fragile crystals on the under surface.

The formation, ablation, and subsequent modification of surface ice by radiation, impurities and so on, and the deposition, structure, modifications due to wind, temperature etc., of surface snow are also going to give results, particularly interesting here, where ablation is often excessive and radiation is for months together unaffected by any heat from the sun

 

direct.

The temperature and conductivity of ice, and the formation of various ice crystals and their dependence on temperature and humidity, are things requiring ex­periment and observation extending over a length of time, and these are being fully dealt with photographically.

Pendulum observations were made in the winter but will be repeated as there was considerable difficulty in getting suitable conditions in an ice cave at low temperatures, and in the hut there is difficulty in obtaining a satisfactory immovable pillar for the instrument. This is the same as was used down here in the Discovery and came from Potsdam, where it is in the keeping of Prof. Helmert.

A set of observations was taken at Christchurch, New Zealand, on the way out and another will be taken on the way home as well as at Potsdam again when it returns.

 

Testing of sea water for radioactivity has not yet been done down here, but samples of sea water are being sent home to Prof. Joly in Dublin as occasion offers. The apparatus has, however, been pre­pared here and in the coming winter experiments will be repeated on the spot by way of check.

Taylors’ work and Debenhams’ since our return to Cape Evans has been mainly the examination of this coast, of Ross Island, and the working up of the results of the last seasons’ journey west.

They have with the help of Lieut. Evans and Wright made a very detailed plane table survey of the whole of our immediate neighbourhood, and this is the basis of Debenhams’ work on the petrology, Wrights’ work on ice distribution, and Taylors’ on the physiography of the area.

Debenham has made microscopic sections of a large number of rocks as well as a detailed petrographic survey. The rocks here are all volcanic heaps of lava and ash. The only outside elements being erratics and raised beaches.

 

There are other pieces of work which have been under way during the winter.

The tide has been recorded continuously by a series of levers acting on a drum. Seiche effects were rather expected but they have not been obtained.

Coming to biological work, Nelsons’ has already been outlined and it continued through the winter, naturally hampered by darkness and bad weather, but he has got a good deal of collecting done as well as hydrographic work.

Atkinson has been doing the parasitology and has examined the animals that were procurable in the winter months including the fish, 3 species of seal, viz, Weddell, Sea Leopard and Crabeater ; the penguins, Emperors and Adélie, and the Skua Gull.

From these he has a collection which includes ectoparasites, hirudines, and copepods ; and endoparasites, cestodes,

 

nematodes, trematodes, and echinorhynchi–as well as protozoa, trypanoplasma, gregarines and two others unrecognised.

The bacteriology is postponed until nearer the time for departure as it is impossible to maintain cultures without loss of all characteristics over a lengthy period of time. They will, therefore, be collected at the last moment and taken home at once.

My own work on the embryology of the Emperor Penguin, which entailed our winter sledge journey in June and July to Cape Crozier, proved to be an impossibility from here. But there was every reason for making the attempt.

The only chance now of getting eggs of the Emperor for this work is in the case of an expedition wintering quite close to the Emperor rookery. We were lucky in securing several Crabeaters and one Sea Leopard during the winter, otherwise vertebrate zoology has been unsuccessful.

 

The notes made on Antarctic whales last season are much more satisfactory than they were on the last occasion, though there was no possibility of making any attempt to kill or capture.

The photographic work has been quite exceptional thanks to Ponting, both in plate work and cinematography. Colour is represented by over 100 of my sketches.

This completes all that can be called scientific work. I may take out these last 8 pages. If I do it is because they contain other peoples’ information which perhaps ought not to go home through me as yet.

I wrote it out more or less fully to give me an idea as to the relative importance of the various parts for this press telegram which is to go home. Now I must get to work with that and if it contains most of what I have written here I shall let these pages stand.

 

Today, after about an hours’ tinkering, the 2 motors got away on the road to Hut Point with their loads. By the evening they were beyond Razorback Islands and out of sight from here. We hope they will arrive there tomorrow. At present they are going very slow, but when the engines have tuned up a bit and when they get on to softer surface we hope the pace will improve. We ought to know today by telephone from Hut Point how they have been doing.

I took Nobby out for exercise in the forenoon. Afternoon I spent in stowing away all my damageable goods for my long summer absence. We have very damp places in the hut and I had to make certain that all my drawing paper and drawing material, medical stores and surgical instruments, gun, and what not wouldn’t be mildewed and rusted by the time we return in March—or even April.

I’m afraid there is hardly any chance of my being back here in time to read my mails and send an answer back by the ship. She will almost certainly have gone home by the time we return from our southern journey.

 

In the evening I did some writing.

 
Posted in British Antarctic Expedition 1910, Cape Evans, Dr Edward Wilson's journal, Preparing For The Journey South | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

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Turned out at 5.30. Rather breezy but sunny.

It is interesting that the first Adélie Penguins should have been seen at Cape Royds yesterday, because in 1902 the first Adélie was seen at Hut Point on exactly the same date.

It was interest­ing to hear too from Nelson that today the collection of ice plate crystals, which have formed every day on his net lines all through the winter, were for the first time absent and that this absence coincided with a sudden large increase in the number of diatoms caught in the plankton net, and almost certainly with a rise in the temperature of the water. These water temps. are being taken with very extraordinary exactness nowadays, with thermometers which register to a thousandth of a degree centigrade.

Today also two baby seals were seen newly born at the large Razorback Island tide crack. Oates saw them when he was out there with his horses. All the forenoon went in trying to get the two motor cars off with their loads, but they wouldn’t work well and kept stopping, though they were within an ace of being successful.

 

So after spending half the day at one thing and another, it was decided to postpone the start till tomorrow. In the afternoon I was out with my horse, after that working at the taking of latitude sights mathematics—which I hate—till bedtime. It will be wiser to know a little naviga­tion on this southern sledge journey.

 
Posted in British Antarctic Expedition 1910, Cape Evans, Dr Edward Wilson's journal, Preparing For The Journey South | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment